What I've Learned

It take's a little trial and error, but planting tulips is easier than you think! It's a set it and forget it, pop it and drop it type of situation, and although it may require a little leg work in the fall, by the time spring rolls around, you will always, and I mean ALWAYS be grateful that you did it. I've gathered my tips and tricks for planting below, to ensure your most bountiful garden and harvest come spring.

One thing to note: with a few exceptions, many of these specialty tulips do not naturalize for dependable blooms year after year. This means, as sad as it may be, they are best grown as annuals. You may be surprised next season if you decide to leave the tulips to die back in your garden, but I'd consider it a happy surprise, and not an expectation.

How To's

  • When to Plant

    Plant your bulbs when the soil has cooled to 55°F or lower, and nighttime temperatures consistently range from 40–50°F. Ideally, aim to plant about 5-6 weeks before the ground freezes to give the bulbs ample time for root development. Between you and me, you have more time to plant them than you may think. I've planted tulips when the first few inches of ground has frozen before, and everything has turned out alright.

  • Prechilling in Zones 8–10

    If you're in Zones 8–10, you'll need to prechill your bulbs at 38–45°F for 6–12 weeks before planting. To do this, keep the bulbs in their bags and place them in a refrigerator for up to 12 weeks, avoiding proximity to fruit (especially apples). Once the chilling period is complete, plant the bulbs immediately during the coolest time of the year.

  • How to Plant

    Loosen soil to a depth of 8–12 inches. Position the bulbs upright, with the pointed end facing up and the flat end down. If you're growing tulips for cut flowers, space bulbs ¼–½" apart, like eggs in an egg carton. If you're planting them in a landscape or garden beds, space bulbs 1–6" apart. Cover the bulbs with soil 2½–3 times their height. For instance, a bulb that is 1½ inches tall should be covered with 4–5 inches of soil. Hot tip: it's better to plant slightly deeper than too shallow. Water the bulbs immediately after planting in the fall, and thereafter, normal rainfall should be just fine, except in the driest climates.

FAQ's

Where should I plant them?

Tulips prefer full sun but can also thrive in partial shade, particularly during hot weather. Ideally, they should receive at least 5–6 hours of sunlight each day while they are blooming.

Is my bulb moldy or diseased? The skin is broken.

Tulip bulbs should be firm to the touch, and have no odor. Bulbs may have minor scuffs or scars from harvesting, and the outer skin might not be completely intact. These conditions are typical and will not impact the bulbs' productivity. Additionally, tulips might have a small amount of blue mold (Penicillium), which is normal and usually doesn't pose a risk to the bulb or your soil. I try to avoid mailing any tulips with any signs of this, so you shouldn't run into this. If your tulip is dried out, turning powdery, or smells, contact me!

What kind of soil do tulips like?

Tulip bulbs need well-drained soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Adjust the soil based on test results to modify the pH and enhance drainage. Using raised beds or adding compost can help with drainage. Avoid using excessive nitrogen or fresh manure.

How do I cut them for a bouquet?

This is hard to do, but the best time to pick them is when the flowers begin to show color, but before they begin to open. To achieve the longest stems, harvest by grasping the base of the stem and gently pulling straight up. This technique can add 3–6 inches to the stem length, compared to cutting the stems at the soil line.

My tulips didn't blossom. Now what?

Unfortunately since there are so many factors that come into play when growing, we cannot guarantee your outcome, but we encourage you to reach out at any point for us to help troubleshoot your experience, so we can try again together next season!